Yves Saint Laurent
Early Life
Yves Henri Donat Mathieu-Saint-Laurent, known as Yves Saint Laurent, was born on August 1, 1936, in Oran, a coastal city in what was then French Algeria. He was the eldest child of Charles and Lucienne Andrée Mathieu-Saint-Laurent. His father was a successful insurance broker, and the family lived a comfortable, bourgeois lifestyle.
Education and Early Career
Saint Laurent moved to Paris at the age of 17 to pursue a career in fashion design. He enrolled at the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, where his designs quickly gained attention. In 1953, he submitted three sketches to a contest for young fashion designers organized by the International Wool Secretariat. He won first place and caught the eye of one of the contest's judges, the legendary designer Christian Dior.
Career at Dior
In 1955, Saint Laurent began to work at Dior, where he was initially given mundane tasks but was soon allowed to submit sketches for the couture collection. His talent was evident, and he quickly rose through the ranks. When Dior died unexpectedly in 1957, Saint Laurent, at the tender age of 21, was named head designer of the House of Dior, a position that made him one of the youngest ever in the world of haute couture.
The Trapeze Collection
Saint Laurent's first collection for Dior, the Trapeze Collection, was presented in 1958. It was a resounding success and won him a Neiman Marcus Fashion Award. The collection departed from the signature silhouette of Dior's previous collections and introduced a more relaxed and youthful look. The Trapeze dress, with its narrow shoulders and wide, flaring skirt, became an instant classic.
Military Service and Aftermath
In 1960, Saint Laurent was conscripted into the French army during the Algerian War of Independence. His time in the military was short but traumatic, and he was hospitalized for a nervous breakdown. During his hospitalization, he was replaced at Dior by designer Marc Bohan. This event marked a turning point in Saint Laurent's life and career.
Establishment of Yves Saint Laurent Fashion House
In 1961, with the financial backing of industrialist Pierre Bergé, Saint Laurent established his own fashion house, Yves Saint Laurent (YSL). The couple had met at a dinner party in 1958 and became both romantically and professionally involved. Bergé managed the business side of the company, while Saint Laurent focused on the creative aspect.
Innovations and Contributions to Fashion
Saint Laurent is credited with numerous innovations and contributions to fashion. He was one of the first designers to feature non-white models in his runway shows. In 1966, he introduced Le Smoking, a tuxedo for women, which became one of his most famous designs. He was also known for his use of ready-to-wear, high fashion, and exotic influences.
Later Life and Retirement
In the late 1980s and early 1990s, Saint Laurent's health began to decline. He became increasingly reclusive and began to suffer from depression and substance abuse. In 2002, he announced his retirement and held a farewell show at the Centre Pompidou in Paris. The show featured a retrospective of his work and was attended by a host of international stars.
Death and Legacy
Saint Laurent died on June 1, 2008, in Paris, from brain cancer. His body was cremated, and his ashes were scattered in the Majorelle Garden in Marrakech, Morocco, a place he had visited often and loved. His death marked the end of an era in fashion, but his legacy lives on. The Yves Saint Laurent fashion house continues to be a major force in the global fashion industry.